On Ghana
I can't think of a better way to spend three weeks. Cultural exploration, with the perfect mix of Africana history, educational service learning, and the vulnerable practice of being human. I thought that after being home for over two weeks, I would be able to fully process and reflect on all I had seen and done. But the reality is..... it still doesn't feel real. If you enjoyed my China photo diary, I thought I would do something similar— only the colors are arguably more vibrant, and I have felt more at home here, than anywhere else I have been in the world.
We will start off in Winneba, about an hour and a half away from the capital (Accra). At our lodging, we would step outside and be a 3-minute walk from the beach. How crazy!? Winneba is also a fishing village, so as early as 3 in the morning you can catch boats being taken out to sea where nets are dropped to catch a day’s worth. At the time I arrived, there was a lift on a wide ban on fishing to replenish the ocean so you can imagine how many boats were out within the 12 days I was in Winneba. In the afternoon, the boats are pulled back in, the fish is dumped out in a pile, and the men quickly get out of the way so the women can get to work on sorting, cleaning, cutting, and smoking.
Some shells from the opposite side of the Atlantic Ocean.
goats rummaging over dead coconut— a street vendor staple (along with banana chips, mango, and tiger nuts).
On everything from boats, to cars, to shops, the Ghanaian people wear their love and faith for God boldly and loudly.
If you look closely you might see that the boat is tied to a rope to a tree. When boats are taken out in the morning, some men stay behind to help basically keep the boat afloat while at sea. The waves on this side of the ocean are violent.
Were you really at the beach if you don't take the mandatory basic palm tree picture?
Market day in Winneba— every Thursday. You name almost anything that could grow from the earth or come from an animal (minus milk or cheese) and you'll find it here. Can you spot the hibiscus? Or the ginger?
Probably one of my favorite pictures I took while in Ghana. This day was filled with sensory overload and moved really fast, but this picture is very soft and seems to hold time in place.
Smoked fish! It is impossible to get used to the smell, but smoked fish is a staple— not just in Winneba, but throughout Ghana. It is a common way of preservation against food waste, and is added to everything from palav sauce to ketchup.
Fabric! You can get a lot of premade clothing while in Ghana, especially at markets, but it is always immersive to get things made for you! I got two skirts made :)
Kakum National Park— Although it is most commonly referred to as a rainforest, it has a transitional area between a moist evergreen and a semi-deciduous forest. Also, unlike most rainforests, this one has a dry season. It is known for four distinct things— endangered species, the canopy walkway, an amazing tree house, near the tallest tree ever, and the Kuntan nature trail where you can learn about the cultural and medicinal uses of rainforest plants.
These geckos are a common sight in Ghana— they eat all the mosquitoes so you will want them around.
There are seven of these bridges and they are so high up. It is an incredible adrenaline rush as they are insanely shaky— I am surprised I was even able to take pictures, while balancing!
This treehouse is everything.
Crocodile Garden and Cafe about twenty minutes away from the National Park! I touched a crocodile for the first and last time of my life while here.
I am pretty sure this one was 27 feet long— still processing.
I spy with my little eye….. For 5 cedis (1 US dollar), you can ride a little boat in this water with these cuties swimming underneath you. Sadly, none came up to say hello to me while I was in the boat.
Proud of this picture for the simple fact that half of my body was hanging out of the window for it.
Memorial Wall— An hour and a half away from the Cape Coast Castle is the Assin Manso Slave Market memorial site- it was known as the largest slave market in West Africa and was the site of the Last Bath and Slave River (when enslaved Africans were sold they were taken to the river for their last bath (literally) in groups of ten shackled together). Afterwards, they walked from this site to the Cape Castle. Again, this was an hour and a half ride way— imagine the walk. Those who are birthed from the diaspora and find themselves returning, can sign this wall in memorial (which I did!) for 100 cedis or 50 US dollars.
Cape Coast Castle in Cape Coast, Ghana. Although originally built by the Swedes for trade, this place is notoriously known for the British and their using this site as a holding cell for captives awaiting their fate, as well as being the largest slave castle in West Africa. Men were separated from women and children- and waited for ships to take them to the Islands, Americas, or Europe, anywhere from weeks to months. 1000 men were stuffed in a dungeon and 500 women (and children) in another. There were punishment cells for those who showed resistance (to orders, rape, etc.) and there was actually a church built on top of the male dungeon. When you are walking through the dungeons, the floors are caked with years of feces, blood, etc, that it covers the bricks that were originally there. (for a fictional account of what it was like inside- Homegoing by Yaa Gasi is incredible)
The city that has blossomed around this devastating historical reminder, sits right below the castle.
What you’re walking on through the Castle.
Preservation in process
A lot of these empty rooms on ground level have been turned into shops and libraries, etc.
Taking pictures through windows is my new favorite thing now.
I visited the Kantanka car manufacturing site— and engineering innovation hub. This place was crazy. I saw t.v’s that turned on when you blew on them and turned off when you clapped, as well as a wicked fire alarm simulation.
Elmina Castle in Elmina, Ghana— the oldest slave castle built by the Portuguese. In stages of preservation.
We did a walking tour of Elmina where we got to see heavy architectural influences left behind by the Portuguese.
what’s at sea
Back at it with the window.
If you squint a little you can see the city (still Elmina)
Leaving the coast, and headed towards Kumasi, is the village where kente was born. It is a traditional weaving method once reserved for royals only. As tradition has it, men were the only ones allowed to cook and sew for the King as they did not get periods and were not deemed as emotional (jealous, etc)- so today the weaving practice is dominated by men (women can’t use the machines while pregnant as well). Boys learn as young as 10 or 12 through their older brother, father, or grandfather, and then don’t start apprenticing until 18. This village has taken advantage of how tourist-heavy this site is, and they use the proceeds from sales to give back to the community.
Each vertical strip tells a story.
Seeing this in action is the coolest thing ever.
Leaving this village and driving 30 minutes or so, brings you to the village that is known for Adinkra stamping. Our guide was very detailed about the process as his whole family is apart of the industry. His mother travels to Northern Ghana for a special tree only grown in that area. The bark is removed, soaked in water for 24 hours, and then grinded (see above). Process continued below.
Once soaked the liquid is drained from the mush and then boiled until it turns into a natural dark black ink.
It’s like velvet. How incredible!
There are over 50 stamps (symbols) to choose from. I chose the one right behind the dark sun, that stands for adaptation and changing many roles.
An example of how you can tell a story through your symbols!
Kumasi, in Ashanti Region Ghana, is known where kings live. 3 of Ghana’s kings have lived in this palace turned museum, and you can see some adinkra symbols around the interior —they are of huge significance in Kumasi.
Leaving Kumasi, but not yet reaching Koforidua, is the Cocoa Research Institute of Ghana (CRIG- there is also one in Nigeria- CRIN), in New Tafo Akim, Eastern Region. Ghana is the second largest producer of cocoa, the first being its neighbor: Ivory Coast.
This does not taste good, but it was fun learning about the process-- it reminded me a lot of the coffee bean process in Rwanda.
Chocolate, or the cocoa, is only about 40% of the pod. The 60% isn’t wasted though. It is turn into by-products like cocoa butter, shea butter, soaps, wines, oils, and so much more.
Koforidua is known for having the largest bead market in Ghana. There are many stalls to choose from— so everyone can find something that works for them, but you can also get things made, and pick out beads yourself. This place is also good for working on your bargaining skills!
Welcome to Volta Region Ghana, home of the Akosombo Dam. It helps contribute 20% of electricity to the nation of Ghana. It is a hydroelectric dam on the Volta Lake— the largest artificial lake in the world by square feet. It was built under Ghana’s first president, Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, and initially displaced a lot of people. But 58 years later, those people are being compensated, and their children have scholarship funds set up.
Koforidua is also known for an amazing beading co-op, whose mission is to lift vulnerable women (farmers, single mothers, etc.) out of poverty. These beads are made out of recycled glass- it is grinded into a soft powder, put in an oven, and hand painted. It’s incredible.
Once the beads are finished they are strung together on wire, and washed against concrete with soap. Craftsmanship is so highly valued in Ghana— with everything the people do there.
What I’m now living by.
A group of us walked the last 5 miles of our journey to Accra. So worth it, the views along the highway (yes we walked on a highway) were breathtaking.
I mean……… I totally don’t recommend taking a picture of someone’s home….but I still dream about what this place looks like inside. It deserves a feature on Architectural Digest.
Hands down, my favorite thing we did in Accra, was visit the Pan Africanist Center (aka as W.E.B Dubois’ home). He was invited by Ghana’s first president to work on Encyclopedia Africana (like Britannica). I have never been in awe with someone more— his library is incredible and I can’t wait to dive into his readings!
In Winneba, your mouth is coated with sea salt from the Atlantic Ocean as soon as you wake up and the humidity is so thick you can hold it in your hands. It is the home of fishing villages- and a transformational education system that strives to serve humanity through light, and believes that every kind of student deserves a chance to learn.
Cape Coast and Elmina were overwhelming cities to visit but in the most rewarding way possible. To learn about blackness and history and trauma in a place that gave birth to the diaspora of people who look like me, felt like getting tears kissed away by a mother I have never met but always knew I had.
Driving past a stamping village and traditional kente weaving is the symphony that is the city of Kumasi, where kings and tradition live. People move so fast here they blend into one wavelength.
The Akosombo Dam in Koforidua (Volta Region) helps to light the entire nation of Ghana, and women string beads made of recycled glass into art I can wear around my arms for the rest of my life.
Ending in Accra was an adventure all in itself. A city of gold, where the jollof rice and bissap juice are bottomless and the nightlife never ends. And somewhere in between the markets and post modern condos, are pan-africanist scholars who have changed my way of thinking forever and ever.
David Whyte says "anything and anyone that does not bright you alive is too small for you". Ghana has brightened me endlessly. I hope you can find a place (or thing) that brightens you, challenges your spirit, keeps you up all night, and tires you out by morning. I hope you find a place that makes you blush with curiosity and eager to jump out of your comfort zone. I could tell you much more about the last three weeks of my life, but honestly words wouldn't do it justice.
You're just going to have to go and experience Ghana for yourself. And eat as much chocolate as you can.
(sankofa. go back and get it.)